Textile firms unite to beat skills shortage

THE fiercely competitive textiles mills of the Scottish Borders have come together for the first time in more than two generations to head off a “crippling” skills crisis that could threaten the historic industry with extinction.

All 12 of the major manufacturers in the region have agreed to collaborate over a modern apprenticeship scheme that will once again induct young people into the industry after a hiatus of about ten years.

The firms, which include Johnstons of Elgin, Hawick Knitwear, Peter Scott and House of Cheviot, have calculated that 10 per cent of their key workers are due to hit retirement age over the next five years.

While the manufacturers – which collectively have a workforce of around 2,000 – employ just a fraction of the 12,500 staff that ran the mills during the industry’s peak, the skills shortage comes at a crucial turning point as the sector experiences a resurgence driven by the booming popularity of luxury goods in markets such as Asia, the Middle East and the US.

Robin Deas of the House of Cheviot said the sector can once again offer a stable career path for young people, with opportunities ranging from the entry level jobs up right up to management.

“I see a huge opportunity now, not only with the traditional skills but using new, exciting machinery. The mills are not the workhouses they once were, they are artists’ jobs.”

The 12 companies have already begun recruiting the first 50 apprentices for this year’s programme, which has been designed with the help of Skillset, the sector skills council for the creative industries. Deas expects at least that number to be taken on next year.

Hawick Knitwear has received 140 applications for its first 15 apprenticeships but that company alone is hoping to employ 50 trainees over the next three years.

Managing director Benny Hartop said there has been a “sea change” as more shoppers are concerned about the provenance and quality of their clothing and are rejecting cheap, disposable fashion.

While the Borders is unlikely to compete ever again in the mass-market production that has been lost to the Far East, luxury garments made in Scotland have grown in popularity and command a premium. The refinement of the industry is pointing to a much brighter future, he says.

“Twenty to 30 years ago, people would go through a three to four year apprenticeship but in the more recent past factories have closed down and the remaining factories have used the labour from the closed factories. Over the last three years there has been a resurgence and this pool of labour dried up.”

Mike Wilson, who runs the Scottish Borders Exporters Association, said the apprenticeship scheme is the first time he has experienced the 12 firms work in collaboration. “I have been down here for 40-odd years and it’s the first time that I can think of of all the companies doing something as a group. This initially was about replacing those who were going to retire but they are telling us now is business is growing so they are taking on not just replacements but extra people.”

The other companies involved are Hawick Cashmere, Barrie, William Lockie & Co, Scott & Charters, Eribe, Caerlee Mills, Kearse & Boys and Lochcarron.