Wine: ‘Year after year, one champagne house is outperforming the rest’

For the sixth year, the same Frenchman has scooped the coveted title of Sparkling Winemaker of the Year at the International Wine Challenge. Regis Camus is clearly no one-hit wonder. He has seen off stiff competition in champagne from famous labels and larger producers. His small champagne house is now the most continuously awarded in the appellation.

If you have ever drunk Waitrose own-label champagne, Charles Heidsieck or Piper Heidsieck champagnes you will have tasted his creations. So why is Charles Heidsieck so good? The key is in sourcing the best grapes, and very skilful “blending”.

There is a lot of misunderstanding about the Heidsieck trio of names. Of the three, Charles Heidsieck is the third – and youngest – but by far the best quality. Piper, its sister house, is very different with a vividly fruity style. Heidsieck Monopole (a lesser brand in my opinion) is completely separate – and nothing to do with the other champgagne houses.

Charles Heidsieck was originally created by “Champagne Charlie”, Charles-Camille, in 1850. He made his name with his colourful and highly successful sales exploits in USA, although he eventually ended up in a Mississippi jail.

A few months ago, Remy Cointreau put both up for sale. Many thought one of the giants, such as LVMH, Bacardi or Vranken-Pommery, would gobble up Charlie and it would never be the same again. Thankfully, its 65 hectare vineyards, stock and brand were kept intact and bought (for e412 million/£356m) by the Descours family, who own various French clothing brands such as Bonpoint.

The new French owners may not know about champagne making but they know about brands. Christophe Descours made a shrewd early move hiring Veuve Clicquot’s ex-MD Cecile Bonnefond. So Charlie is in safe hands and is 100 per cent family owned. My hope is that they will revive the old “Charlie” as their prestige cuvée again.