City guide: Belfast

TRY some Irish whiskey with your porridge, urged the curlicued text on the silver breakfast platter. I'd already been tempted to sprinkle some brown sugar, a few raisins and a little honey on my morning oats but, ordinarily, I never touch a drop of the hard stuff until at least elevenses. What to do?

Belfast prides itself on its foodie credentials: think soda bread and Guinness; Cashel blue cheese and prime Irish beef; scallops from the Irish sea and pigeon from the Clandeboye estate.

At least some of these, and more besides, were on the Culloden Estate and Spa's six-course tasting menu, each dish served with specially selected wine (or a glass of the black stuff if you prefer).

It costs 80 per person, or combine it with an overnight stay for 150. Gordon Ramsay has eaten there, as have Russell Brand, Bono and Dolly Parton — though not together; now that would have been a dinner party — so standards are impeccable and the service faultless.

As for breakfast, I can confirm that a splash of Bushmills is, indeed, the perfect way to set you up for the day. Slainte!

More than 100 years old, St George's Market in East Bridge Street (www.belfastcity.gov.uk) operates all weekend but Saturday is your best bet for the widest variety of local and more exotic food. Try a low-fat tandoori from Hotlips Curries or cured meats and cupcakes from local suppliers; there are traditional Irish stews, paellas and bacon butties, tapas, quiches piled high with sundried tomatoes and mozzarella, herbs and spices, pork and beef from local farms, fish and fresh fruit and vegetables. There's a real buzz about the place and you'll love the craic as well as the cooking.

Once a favourite tavern for smugglers and horse thieves, Grace Neill's, High Street, Donaghadee (www.graceneills.com) has seen an improvement in its clientele over the years. The composer Franz Lizst supped here, as did the poet John Keats while, more recently, Brian Keenan celebrated his release from capitivity with a pint and even Tina Turner has put in an appearance. Officially Ireland's oldest pub, it is said to be haunted by its titular landlady, but she's a friendly old soul. And, though it may have been around since 1611, it's had the decorators in since then and, on a sunny day, the beer garden is a beautiful suntrap.

Once you've bought your picnic goodies from St George's Market, take them down to Crawfordsburn Country Park (Bridge Road South), which has fragrant meadows, woodland walks and two bracing beaches on which to spread your travelling rug. It's a stunning spot, with a three-mile running trail, should you feel the need to work off some of that fine Irish grub.

Traipsing round the shops of Belfast city centre can take its toll on the feet, so when the time comes to take the weight off, do it in style. The Culloden's Spa-tisserie package combines a choice of luxury pedicure, manicure, full body massage or aromatherapy with a truly scrumptious champagne afternoon tea. From 135, including bed and breakfast (028 9042 1066, www.hastingshotels.com).

Whether your tastes run to honeycomb, fudge, traditional boilings or macaroons, Aunt Sandra's, Castlereagh Road (www.auntsandras.com) is the spot to stock up. Catering to Belfast's sweet teeth since 1953, the factory now provides guided tours, which are a fascinating and entertaining insight into old-time candy making. Led by Aunt Sandra's nephew David, who now runs the show, they cost 4.50 (3.50 for children), though you might need a little extra to indulge yourself afterwards.

For cutesy printed T-shirts with a retro bent, Tee And Toast (www.teeandtoast.com) is entirely ethical and sums up the friendly, not-taking-itself-too-seriously attitude of the Northern Irish. Have a look at the website or see a selection at St George's Market. Personal favourites include the sack race, the ring-a-roses and the owl prints. Also love the Mr T mug and the cheesy hand-made giftcards containing teabags and messages like "You're my cup of tea" and "You're tea-riffic". Geddit?

This article was first published in Scotland on Sunday, 22 August, 2010